From pumpkin to butternut squash, apple and cinnamon, a cornucopia of ingredients whet the appetite for autumn.
By Sharon Stello
Certain flavors evoke feelings of fall, that cozy time when there’s a bit of chill in the air, leaves start changing color and we start gearing up for the holiday season ahead. Of course, there’s the ever-popular pumpkin—which has taken on a life of its own with pumpkin-flavored coffee, ice cream and everything in between—but butternut squash, apple and the warm scent of cinnamon and nutmeg also get us in the mood for the months leading up to Thanksgiving.
While fall may not be as intense in California’s coastal towns, Newport Beach restaurants still embrace the seasonal shift when it comes to menus. Here are several dishes that incorporate ingredients typically associated with autumn so you can experience the fall vibe even if it’s too warm outside to wear a scarf.
Skal Pizza
Enjoy the taste of fall year-round at Skal Pizza, which offers a butternut squash and sage pizza. With a focus on fire-roasted pizza, handmade pasta, roasted veggies and farm-to-table salads, Skal was founded by Helene Henderson, the chef and owner of Malibu Farm. Both restaurants are located in the waterfront Lido Marina Village, boasting harbor views. When it comes to pizza, Henderson says she wanted to create one that would work as a vegetarian option, but also pair well with prosciutto or salami if guests decide to add meat for a “flavor profile that would be spicy and sweet.” One of the ingredients starts with hot sauce made at Malibu Farm, which is used as a base to make a hot honey for Skal. “We drizzle this on the super-thin slices of butternut squash circles,” Henderson says of the layers on top of tomato sauce and vegan Gouda cheese. “Sage goes well with squash to complement the dish. I love this pizza because it has the essence of fall/winter comfort.” For those who prefer pasta, Skal also makes butternut squash noodles tossed with cherry tomatoes and house tomato sauce. (949-239-6290; skalpizza.com)
Olea, Cellar-Craft-Cook
One of the pasta dishes at Olea, Cellar-Craft-Cook changes with the seasons. In summer, the house-made agnolotti—a type of stuffed pasta—features sweet corn. Then, come fall, the star ingredient switches to pumpkin. Offered beginning Oct. 1 or sometimes in late September, the popular starter—to share with the table or keep to yourself—brings together fresh goat cheese, toasted hazelnuts, crispy sage and brown butter. The pasta is made simply using unbleached, all-purpose flour, egg yolks and a touch of milk to keep it soft, then filled with a pumpkin mixture. For a sauce, sage leaves and hazelnuts are toasted in butter as it browns to get crispy and infuse a rich flavor. The dish is then garnished with fresh goat cheese and minced chives. “I’ve been making a version of this for close to 20 years,” says chef Jared Cook. “The pasta can change—I’ve made it with ravioli—but the filling and the combination of flavors, from sweet to tangy and a touch of crunch from the nuts and sage, is a big crowd pleaser. It tastes like fall.” (949-287-6807; oleanewportbeach.com)
Sushi Ii
Harvested only in the fall, matsutake mushrooms are incorporated in autumn dishes at Sushi Ii. Master chef Susumu Ii sources these hyper-seasonal mushrooms, which are highly sought-after and are becoming increasingly rare. The mushrooms feature a subtle spice and bear the slight scent of cinnamon. They’ll be on the menu as soon as they come into season, which begins in October and lasts through late November or, occasionally, into early December. The chef will include them in his “omakase”—or chef’s choice—dishes like his “dobin mushi,” a Japanese broth that allows diners to appreciate these mushrooms’ unique flavor and unmistakable aroma. “Dobin mushi is the most traditional way to experience the seasonality of matsutake mushrooms,” Ii says. “The soup’s stock—“dashi”—is prepared ahead of time with bonito [fish] and kelp. These strong flavors enhance and complement the richness of the matsutake and bring about its aroma. It’s served with a side of ‘sudachi,’ a Japanese citrus, which brings the whole dish into balance.” (949-287-6268; sushi-ii.com)
Lido Bottle Works
For dessert, the honeynut squash tiramisu at Lido Bottle Works is the perfect fall sweet treat that you probably didn’t know existed. The star ingredient is a variant of butternut squash. “I try and use honeynut squash from Weiser [Family] Farms every year in some capacity,” says Joel Gutierrez, executive chef at Lido Bottle Works. “It’s a fantastic product that’s inherently very sweet, so it pairs really well with desserts.” The squash comes together with house amaretto and acorn squash creme anglaise for a light dish that plays with the palate. “I always try and pair a savory ingredient with sweet ingredients,” Gutierrez says of his approach. “It’s something I enjoy and I think brings a little bit of creativity to dessert.” For the tiramisu, he says, ginger is incorporated in the mascarpone blend with the squash, as well as cinnamon, allspice and cloves—“just to give it that warming fall spice.” (949-529-2784; lidobottleworks.com)
Bayside Restaurant
In addition to fall-focused dishes, there are also plenty of autumnal cocktails that are sure to help warm you up. Take, for example, the Bonfire Old-Fashioned that will be introduced in early October at Bayside Restaurant. “We try to come up with something fun that fits the season,” says Cameron Mealey, Bayside’s special events manager. New this year, the cocktail is made with rye whiskey, which means the liquor must be made using at least 51% rye grain. “We wanted something that was traditional, but with a twist,” Mealey says. “It feels warm and cozy, but not smoky, so it definitely will appeal to more Old-Fashioned cocktail lovers. The combination of a rye whiskey with maple syrup as the sweetener, combined with the chocolate bitters gives that sitting-by-the-bonfire vibe to the cocktail.” (949-721-1222; baysiderestaurant.com)
